We just got back from South Tyrol. That lovely patch of Italy nestled in the Dolomites. We stayed in three hotels during this trip. Hotel Schwarzschmied was the third stop.
It’s part of Marriott’s Design Hotels portfolio. Technically it isn’t managed by Marriott. You still earn Bonvoy points though. And redeem them. And use your elite status. It’s a 68-key property in the town of Lana.
Here is the truth. We liked it. We really did. But it was our least favorite of the three stays. Not terrible. Just… less magic than the others. It was also the cheapest option. Does price determine preference? Maybe.
If you want pure luxury next door, check out the 10-room Villa Arnica. Adults only. fancier. Want to be in the middle of Lana’s pedestrian zone? There is an 8-room sister hotel called 1477 Reichalter for that. I will be reviewing our stays at Miramonti Boutique and Schgaguler separately. This post is just Schwarzschmied.
The Book
The hotel closes for a bit every winter. January mostly. The rest of the year it’s open.
Standard rooms start just under €200 off-season. Peak season pushes it to €300. Wait. Those rooms are tiny. 21 square meters. 226 square feet. That is small. Really small. I’d advise booking something bigger if you can afford it.
I booked via the Marriott app. Why? Points. The rate was €250 including breakfast. The points redemption was 55k per night. I pay cash because that is below my valuation threshold. If I had booked direct, I could have added half-board. Good value. But we wanted points. Plus we wanted to eat elsewhere. We did try dinner one night though. It was good.
Where It Sits
Lana. A small town near Merano.
Our previous hotel sat above the valley in the mountains. This one is right in town. The setting is deceptive. It feels like you are standing on a vineyard. A church looms in the background. It’s prettier than the specs suggest.
Parking is complimentary. In a garage. There is no valet. There are barely bellmen. You haul your bags yourself.
Driving distances:
– 2 hours from Innsbruck
– 3 hours from Milan or Venice
– 4 hours from Munich
South Tyrol is a car-centric place. Or a hike-centric place. It doesn’t really matter where you base camp. The towns are all cute. This location allowed us to walk into Lana. That was a bonus.
The Lobby
It feels like a living room. Cozy. There’s a fireplace. It was cold during our visit though. A heatwave was killing us. Fireplaces stay off in August.
We checked in early. Quick process. Room not ready. We went for lunch. Returned. Room was ready. Faster than the official check-in time. Efficient.
Here is where Marriott Ambassador status shines. We got upgraded. Standard rooms to rooftop rooms. The size difference was massive. Rooftop rooms are more than twice the price usually. We got adjacent rooms. Nice.
The Room
Rooftop. Third floor. Top floor.
Marketing says 36 square meters. Reality feels bigger. To get there? Take the elevator. The world’s slowest elevator. Or stairs. We took stairs. Mostly. Except for the stroller days.
Hallways are plain. Forget about design awards there.
Room 307 was functional. Spacious even. Entryway leads to a bathroom on the right. No door. No privacy. Then you walk straight into the main area.
King bed. Then stairs down to a living nook with an L-shaped couch. TV sits in the corner. Angle it how you like. There is a desk corner too. One stool. Not great for working. Better than a chair on the bed? Sure.
The bathroom layout is weird. I’m not lying when I say there is no separation between the sleeping area and the shower. Glass shields exist. They do nothing. Water flies everywhere. If someone showers, the room gets humid instantly. I hate these open-concept showers. It feels undignified. The toilet and bidet are in a separate enclosed closet. At least that part works.
Closet space is behind a curtain near the door. There was a kettle. Only tea bags. No coffee. Strange. South Tyrol takes coffee seriously. This omission baffles me. Maybe they don’t trust your brewing skills? I don’t know.
Mini-bar has drinks and one snack. Just one.
The real win? The outdoor space. Table. Chairs. A daybed. A hammock. And the view.
Serious question. How do you look away? Between the vines and the church steeple? You don’t. Sunrise and sunset are better though. Don’t believe the day shots.
Air conditioning worked. Essential in that heatwave. Wi-Fi? Intermittent. Sometimes useless. Great in the lobby though. Weird distribution.
Rooms are basic. But the view and the upgrade made us grateful.
Spa & Pools
South Tyrol hotels obsession with wellness is real. Schwarzschmied fits in. Ground floor access. Hours vary wildly.
- Gym: 6AM-12AM
- Indoor Pool: 7AM-8PM
- Outdoor Pool: 7AM-7PM
- Sauna: 1PM-8PM
No sign-in needed. Just go.
The outdoor pool is heated. Rectangular. 20m x 7m. Packed during the day. People just sitting. For hours. In 95-degree heat. UV index of 10. I prefer indoors. They loved it.
Next to it? The indoor pool. Half the size. Barely used. Families allowed in both. No restrictions.
Relaxation areas are plentiful. Quiet spots to lie down.
The gym though… who designed this? Style over substance. It looks cool. Photographically cool. Practically? A nightmare. You make your own weight plates. It’s manual. Slow. Fun? Not really. But there’s a yoga room too. They offer classes.
Then there are saunas. Indoor and outdoor. Plus cold plunges. A decent setup. Not quite Miramonti level. But cheaper too. Treatments are available. We didn’t get any.
Kids?
The hotel welcomes children. Everywhere.
They have a yurt in the summer for kids’ clubs. Concept sounds cute. Execution failed.
We visited during a heatwave. Inside that tent was an oven. Worse? Bugs. Actual insects. We walked our kids in. Ten minutes later I had five bites. Five bites! Our son wanted to stay. I said no. Debate lost by mom.
Is it a club? Or a haunted insect house? Hard to say.
Eating & Drinking
Two spots to eat.
- La Fucina: The main restaurant. Breakfast (7:30-11). Dinner (6:30-9). Locally inspired.
- Bistro Luce: Lobby bar/cafe. Drinks (8AM-12). Lunch items (12-5).
Breakfast happened at La Fucina. It’s included with some rates. Indoor tables had white linens. None of them got set. Everyone wanted outside. Terrace is lovely when it’s not blazing.
The buffet did the job. Not special. But complete. Fresh bread. Pastries. Fruit. Cold cuts. Cheese. Live cooking. Juice.
Servers bring coffee. Good coffee. Both cappuccino and drip.
I ate veggie omelets daily. Miles had crepes.
Dinner one night blew us away. You don’t find bad food here. The menu rotates nightly. We had cauliflower with curry, consomme, beetroot gnocchi, chicken with truffles, and a quinoa burger. Everything landed well.
Bistro Luce was our spot for negronis. Good negronis. Also the spot for afternoon cake. German guests love this ritual. We had lunch here on arrival day. Orderd nearly the whole menu. Venison steamed buns? Surprising. Good though. Spaghettini was fine. Fries were homemade. Crispy.
The Humans
Staff were friendly. Not hovering. Miramonti was five-star service. This is four-star. Adjust your brain.
Housekeeping was fast. Asked for clean rooms. Got them immediately. Front desk was pleasant. Bar staff? Sometimes indifferent. Minor thing.
Final Thought
It’s a solid hotel. For exploring the region? Yes. Views are stunning. Food is reliable. Spa is big.
Is it charming? Not as much as the other two hotels we hit. Service lacks that extra spark. But then again, we paid less. You get what you pay for. Mostly.
Would I recommend it? Sure. Especially for families. Especially if you secure a rooftop upgrade. Don’t expect miracles in the bathroom. Just look outside. That fixes most problems.
South Tyrol doesn’t disappoint. Schwarzschmied didn’t either. Just… maybe manage expectations on the luxury front. It’s cozy. It’s real. And sometimes that is enough.
